GARMENTS AND ARTICLES OF EQUIPMENT
OF ENROLLED WOMEN OF THE NAVAL RESERVE FORCE
Add Article 264 - Page 73.
264. To be of navy serge or white bleached drill, slightly shaped to figure, as long as to knuckles of hand when hanging; shall be single-breasted, with plain seams and rolling collar. Four navy guilt buttons, 7/10" in diameter, to be 6" apart, the first one-half inch from collar band, and not visible when lapels are turned back, as usually worn. Sleeve cuffs to have three navy guilt buttons 9/16" in diameter, lower button to be 1" from edge of sleeve cuff and 3/4" apart. On each hip an outside patch pocket, the top of each to be abreast the fourth button. Dimensions about 5 by 5 ½. Lower corners slightly rounded, with shield-shaped flat at top. Plaits 2" wide running from shoulders, both front and back, Norfolk style. Belt 1-3/4" wide will run under plaits and button in front (navy gilt button 7/10" diameter), 3 1/2" above the fourth button of the coat. Lining for serge coat to be dark blue sateen. White coat to be skeleton lined with bound seams.
265. To be of plain navy-blue serge or white drill, strictly tailor made, full at the bottom, and to fit the figure over the hips; belting will reinforce waistband. Placket to be in left hip seam, fastened with invisible snappers. Outside patch pockets, about 5 ½ by 6 ½ inches on right and left side front of skirt; lower corners rounded, shield-shaped flaps from 2 1/4 to 2 ½" deep at top of pocket; to button with 7/10" navy gilt button. Bottom of skirt about 8" from floor.
266. Tailored shirt waists to be of beach cloth or similar material, front and back plain to top shoulder seam (all seams flat). One seam sleeve set plain into armhole. Cuff opening at outside wrist bone, fastened with two buttons 2" apart, first one right below where cuffs issued on sleeve. Cuff 3-3/4" deep at opening, rising to 4 1/2" at sleeve seam. Slight gathering of sleeve into cuff. Waist and collar open down front. Collar to admit of being worn unbuttoned and folded back or buttoned high, turning over part slanting slightly away from the center front. Plain 3/8" pearl buttons, three on collar 7/8" below collar seam. Plain patch pocket on left side of waist opposite of fourth button from the collar. Dimensions, 3-3/4" deep at side near buttons, 3 1/2" at other side; straight at top with button slanting. Flap sewed on above it, 1-5/8" deep vertical edge slanting 1 1/4" toward center of waist.
267. To be straight-brimmed sailors, of navy-blue felt or white rough flat straw, shaped to conform to following dimensions: Brim 2-3/4" from crown to outer edge. Crown to be 3-3/4" high, 6 1/4" wide at top and 6-3/4" at bottom, 7-3/4" long at top and 8 1/4" at bottom. To be ordered to fit head size of person wearing it.
268. Regular navy neckerchief to be worn when collar is unbuttoned and folded back.
269. Plain black to be worn with blue skirt and plain white with white suit.
270. High and low, shall be of black leather for wear with blue suit and white canvas or buckskin for wear with white suit. With white shoes rubber soles and spring heels shall be permitted.
271. White gloves of cotton.
Source: Change No.15, not dated (1917 or 1918), to Uniform Regulations, United States Navy of 1913.
Capes to be made of blue navy cloth, flared, length to bottom of skirt, as prescribed in last sentence of article 265, "Change in Uniform Regulations No.15," with roll collar also of blue navy cloth, to be fastened with hook and eye and fitted with storm flap, secured with buttons on underside of collar, for use when worn with collar turned up. To have two Navy frogs 2" by 4" and 4" apart, the upper one being 4" below the neck. To have two patch pockets, conveniently placed on the inside, 5" wide and 10" deep, beginning 10" below the neck; and two vertical slits, one on each side, 8" long and beginning 14" below the shoulders, to permit freedom of arms outside of cape when cape is fastened, each slit to have button and buttonhole in center. To be lined with a suitable black material and fitted with a loop inside of collar band for hanging-up purposes; also a flap 2" by 2 1/2" fitted with buttonhole 22" from bottom of cape, with button placed opposite, for use when cape is worn thrown back over shoulders.
Source: Change No. 23, dated 9 August 1918, to Uniform Regulations, United States Navy of 1913.
Note: The original Uniform Regulations of 1913 do not mention women reservists since they were first authorized to join the Navy in 1917. The text of the above changes to Uniform Regulations, United States Navy of 1913 are reproduced here as in the original, following the original use of capitalization, but without underlining. A photocopy of the changes is located in the Navy Dept. Library's "Women - World War I" vertical file.